JOUR 2 & JOUR 3 – 11 & 12 décembre 2022 – De Los Angeles à Melbourne

Day 2 & Day 3 – December 11 & 12, 2022 – From Los Angeles to Melbourne

On se réveille avec une tempête sur Los Angeles !
Tempête sur Los Angeles, qui l'aurait cru ?

Avec le décalage horaire entre New York et Los Angeles, nous nous sommes réveillés tous les deux vers 3h00 du matin. Dehors, il y avait une grosse tempête avec de fortes pluies et des vents violents. Où est notre temps ensoleillé en Californie ? Nous avons dû ramener le froid de New York.

Heureusement, nous avons pu nous rendormir. Finalement, nous nous sommes levés après 6h00 et avons pris notre temps pour descendre prendre un très bon petit déjeuner. 

Nous avons pris notre temps ce matin car nous avions toute la journée avant notre vol pour Melbourne qui devait décoller à 21h05.

De nouveau… nous marchons à Los Angeles avant notre long vol vers l’Australie

Une fois que la pluie s'est arrêtée, nous nous sommes habillés chaudement pour faire face aux vents forts et marcher de Marina Del Rey à la jetée de Santa Monica, une promenade de 3,8 miles.

Le vent était si fort que j’aurais dû mettre mon chapeau d’hiver, mais je l’avais laissé dans ma valise dans la chambre… j’espère que je ne tomberai pas malade !

Parce qu'hier nous n'avions pas eu assez de temps pour voir tous les canaux de Venise, nous avons décidé de faire un petit détour par les canaux. Certaines rues ont été inondées à cause des fortes pluies de la nuit dernière. 

 

Les Bizarreries de Venice Beach

Nous avons ensuite marché le long de la plage en passant par Venice Beach, très calme ce dimanche matin – tous les fêtards dormaient, peu importe ce qu'ils avaient bu ou fumé la nuit précédente.

Jetée de Santa Monica

La célèbre jetée de Santa Monica vue dans de nombreux films et émissions de télévision ! La jetée était calme ce dimanche, probablement à cause du froid (du moins pour les Californiens !). 

Je n'ai pas pu résister à l'envie de prendre une photo du kiosque de la Route 66 qui marque la fin de l'historique Route 66 (créée en 1926) qui part de Chicago et traverse le pays. Beaucoup d'histoires, de chansons, et de films sur la Route 66.

Une fois sur l'embarcadère, nous trouvons un restaurant à proximité, le Red O Cantina, un restaurant mexicain. Déjeuner correct à des prix corrects. Nous avons mangé le plus léger possible pour ne pas gêner notre vol de 16 heures vers Melbourne. Un Uber nous a ramenés à notre hôtel où nous nous sommes reposés jusqu'à ce qu'il soit temps de nous préparer à prendre un autre Uber, cette fois au terminal international Tom Bradley à LAX.

Prêts pour nos jours de voyage les plus longs !

Étonnamment, il nous a fallu un peu moins de 30 minutes pour arriver au terminal depuis notre hôtel et seulement 20 minutes pour nous enregistrer au guichet Qantas, passer la pré-sécurité TSA, puis nous rendre au salon Oneworld. Je ne me souviens pas avoir fait tout cela en si peu de temps. Un autre record sur ce voyage. Nous nous sommes détendus dans le salon d'affaires Qantas jusqu'à ce qu'il soit temps pour nous d'arriver à notre porte d'embarquement.

L'avion était l'un de ces avions Boeing les plus récents, le nouveau 787, alias le Dreamliner. Beaucoup de nouvelles fonctionnalités sur cet avion et chaque passager en classe affaires (pas de première classe sur cet avion) possède son propre mini-pod avec des sièges qui s'allongent à plat pour que vous puissiez dormir. C'était la première fois que Jim participait à une classe affaires internationale… il sera difficile de revenir comme entraîneur, voire jamais ! Les agents de bord ont été très sympathiques tout au long de notre vol et Jim a même entamé une conversation sur la photographie avec l'un d'entre eux.

The food was decent but not as tasty as on other American Airlines international flights I’ve been on. They served dinner quite fast as well, which was a bit unusual. Maybe because it is a late flight and people want to get to sleep.

Nous sommes restés éveillés le plus tard possible, regardant des émissions de télévision et des films, essayant d'atteindre immédiatement le fuseau horaire de Hobart. Nous avons dormi plusieurs heures et nous sommes réveillés environ quatre heures avant notre arrivée à Melbourne. Ils nous ont servi le petit-déjeuner avant d'atterrir à Melbourne. Nous ne nous sentions finalement pas si fatigués.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES FLOWN = 7,926 miles (12,756 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 5.35 miles (8.6 km)

JOUR 4 – 13 décembre 2022 – De Melbourne à Hobart

Jour 4 - 13 décembre 2022 - De Melbourne à Hobart

À l'Aéroport de Melbourne

Nous atterrissons à Melbourne à 8h00, sous un ciel nuageux. En marchant sur la passerelle, on sentait l'air frais passer… l'été, non ? Euh… Grâce à mon passeport australien nous avons pu passer la douane assez rapidement. Cependant, nous avons dû attendre que ma grosse valise soit livrée, puis c'est devenu un véritable désastre d'essayer de sortir de la zone de récupération des bagages à cause de deux autres vols internationaux arrivant en même temps en provenance d'Inde et de Chine. Quelle douleur de passer le dernier contrôle douanier. Nous avons cependant contourné les contrôles agricoles grâce encore à mon passeport australien.

Qantas Boeing Dreamlander atterrissant à Melbourne (photo stock)

Mon téléphone portable fonctionnait car j'avais acheté le pass international d'un mois auprès de mon opérateur de téléphonie mobile, Verizon. J'ai envoyé un texto à Jessica pour lui faire savoir que nous avions atterri et que nous attendions maintenant notre vol de Melbourne à Hobart à 10h50. Presque là!

Envol pour Hobart, en Tasmanie !

En attendant de décoller de Melbourne… oui, nous volons en économie maintenant ! 😊

Décollage à Melbourne

Survoler la Tasmanie

Atterrissage à Hobart
Arrivée à Hobart

Enfin, nous sommes arrivés ! Hobart. Nous avons atterri à l'heure juste après midi. L'aéroport de Hobart est relativement plus petit et la livraison de nos bagages a été assez rapide.

Sculptures en bronze du diable de Tasmanie à l'aéroport de Hobart… 

Jess et Alex tournaient autour de l'aéroport et nous avons réussi à nous retrouver dans la zone de dépose/prise en charge à quelques centaines de mètres du terminal. À Hobart, ils ne permettent plus de prendre ou de déposer les passagers juste devant le terminal. Ce n'est pas une mauvaise idée, mais c'est un peu pénible avec les bagages.

Tellement agréable de voir Jess et Alex !!

Voyage au Centre-Ville de Hobart

Après avoir déposé nos bagages et pris une douche rapide, nous nous sommes dirigés vers le centre-ville pour faire quelques courses pour les articles de base que nous n’avions pas apportés avec nous. Le temps n’était pas très « estival », mais plutôt automnal et il a commencé à pleuvoir alors que nous traversions un centre commercial en plein air.

Nous avons déjeuné au Whaler, un pub-restaurant, et avons mangé dehors sous des parasols. La pluie s'est quelque peu arrêtée, mais elle a continué à pleuvoir de temps en temps.

Nous avons pu trouver les articles supplémentaires nécessaires pour nos vacances en Tasmanie. A cause des fêtes de fin d'année et des fortes pluies, il nous a fallu une heure et demie pour sortir du parking !!! Heureusement, nous étions en bonne compagnie et passions du temps à parler de toutes sortes de choses… et le temps passait vite.

Une fois sortis du parking (une aventure en soi), nous sommes allés à l'épicerie et au caviste pour nous approvisionner pour quelques jours.

Première Soirée chez Jess et Alex

La maison de Jess et Alex est assez spacieuse. Ils viennent d'emménager il y a quelques mois et sont encore en train de s'installer. L'intérieur a été rénové et la cuisine et la salle de bain sont plutôt sympas.

Nous avons dîné et discuté pendant un moment jusqu'à ce que nous soyons prêts à nous coucher. Nous avons été assez surpris de ne pas avoir de décalage horaire – du moins pas encore.

La Maison de Jess et Alex
The street where Jess & Alex live; their house is on the left side (white fence)
Le jardin de Jess et Alex ; vous pouvez voir leur potager près de la clôture en bois sur le côté droit de la photo

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES FLOWN = 378 miles (608 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 13 miles (21 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 4.13 miles (6.6 km)

JOUR 5 – 14 décembre 2022 – Jour de relaxation à Hobart

Jour 5 - 14 décembre 2022 - Détente à Hobart

L'hiver le plus Froid en Été

Pain fait maison par Alex au petit déjeuner avec confitures fraîches et café. Belle façon de commencer la journée !

Aujourd'hui est une journée de détente. Un bon timing puisque la météo était assez mauvaise – hivernale en fait, avec des températures froides, de la pluie et du vent. L’« hiver » le plus froid de l’été selon les médias. Il a même neigé sur certains des plus hauts sommets de Tasmanie. Nous vivons en plein milieu de ce mythe du changement climatique…

Nous avons travaillé sur des trucs personnels et passé du temps avec Jess et Alex. Dans l'après-midi, nous avons marché jusqu'à la ville de Moonah (le nom de la ville où vivent Jess et Alex). Leur maison est très bien située et à quelques pas de la rue principale. Il y a beaucoup de petits magasins ainsi que de plus grands magasins d'épicerie, d'articles ménagers, de médecins, etc. et des restaurants de plats à emporter. Nous avons acheté de la nourriture et d'autres articles divers.

La maison et le quartier de Jess et Alex
Town of Moonah

Dans l’ensemble, c’était agréable de se détendre… même de jouer à quelques jeux avec Jess sur leur grand écran multimédia. C'est amusant de ne pas avoir à se soucier du travail et de quoi que ce soit d'autre.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 3.65 miles (5.87 km)

JOUR 6 – 15 décembre 2022 – Visite des jardins botaniques royaux de Tasmanie

Day 6 - December 15, 2022 - Visiting the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens

Surprise du Jour...

J'ai été réveillé par un SMS de ma banque aux États-Unis indiquant que notre carte de crédit avait été frauduleuse… super. Nous avons pris tellement de précautions à Los Angeles pour payer la nourriture. Comme vous le savez, aux États-Unis, les restaurants acceptent vos cartes de crédit pour effectuer le paiement sur leurs terminaux encombrants. Malheureusement, les restaurants sont connus pour détourner les cartes de crédit. Dans notre cas, nous avons nous-mêmes accompagné la carte jusqu'au terminal afin qu'elle ne nous quitte jamais… cependant, d'une manière ou d'une autre, l'un des deux restaurants où nous avons mangé devait avoir un skimmer sur l'un des terminaux. Je soupçonne que cela s'est produit au restaurant Rose Venice (pas au restaurant mexicain). Leur écumoire devait être vraiment bien cachée.

Exemple de dispositif d'écrémage

Me voici donc au téléphone avec Chase Bank pour annuler nos cartes de crédit (les fraudeurs avaient effectué de gros achats sur la boutique en ligne Target). Chase a annulé les montants frauduleux débités avec notre carte de crédit. Au crédit de Chase, ils ont immédiatement traité nos cartes de remplacement. En fait, ils ont précipité nos cartes de crédit via DHL… et elles sont arrivées assez rapidement (après notre voyage dans la péninsule de Tasmanie). Aucune plainte sur la façon dont Chase a géré l'incident de fraude.

Temps de Détente. . .

Comme le temps était encore froid et pluvieux (mais pas aussi mauvais que la veille), nous sommes restés à la maison le matin. Jessica travaillait mais c'était le jour de congé d'Alex. J'ai regardé un extrait du match de football entre la France et le Maroc (2-0). Ensuite, Jim et moi avons travaillé sur nos photos.

Jessica avait réservé la veille pour un déjeuner plus tard (13h00) au restaurant Succulent des Royal Tasmanian Gardens. Une heure avant notre réservation pour le déjeuner, nous nous sommes dirigés vers les jardins.

Les Jardins Botaniques Royaux de Tasmanie

Jess a pu s'échapper du travail (pas un jour de congé pour elle) et venir avec nous aux Jardins botaniques royaux. Même avec la bruine et l'air frais, nous avons quand même apprécié les jardins.

Les jardins sont une grande représentation de toutes sortes de plantes, non seulement en Tasmanie mais dans d’autres pays, par exemple dans le désert du sud-ouest des États-Unis. Ce serait bien un jour de revenir y pique-niquer par une journée ensoleillée. La prochaine fois!

Nous n'avons certainement pas été déçus par le menu du Succulent et le restaurant est à la hauteur de sa réputation.

Déjeuner au Succulent

Le restaurant succulent (photo stock)

Consultez leur site Web et leur menu sur https://leefrais.com.au/succulent/food-menu/

Assez maintenant avec les photos... Jess et Alex ont faim !
Une Soirée Tranquille

After lunch, we walked off the calories strolling in the gardens and drove back home. Later in the afternoon, we walked to downtown Moonah to buy wines, beer, and Cointreau… gotta have our priorities!

The rest of the day was spent quietly. Jess and I played some games on Stream more specifically a game called like Stray (a cat’s adventures looking for its home in a dystopian world… I know someone who would like this cat game! This cat behaves like a real cat!).

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 6.09 miles (9.8 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 4.09 miles (2.54 km)

JOUR 7 – 16 décembre 2022 – De Hobart à la péninsule de Tasman

Jour 7 – 16 décembre 2022 – De Hobart à la Péninsule de Tasman et Port Arthur

En route vers la Péninsule de Tasman

Nous avons quitté la maison de Jess et Alex vers 9h00. Nous nous sommes arrêtés pour faire le plein d’essence et avons rempli les pneus de la voiture d’air. Malheureusement, le temps n'était pas encore vraiment coopératif et il pleuvait toujours et il faisait froid.

Cela nous empêchait de profiter de certains des sites que nous avions sur notre liste… et nous manquions toujours les panneaux de signalisation… encore en train de nous habituer aux distances en kilomètres, je suppose.

Nous avons annulé la route panoramique du côté est de la péninsule de Tasman, en espérant pouvoir réessayer avant de quitter la région. Les nuages bas rendaient très difficile de voir quoi que ce soit… mais nous avons quand même pu prendre une photo de la baie de Dunalley (voir photo ci-dessus, côté droit).

Site Historique de Port-Arthur

Comme la météo ne s'améliorait pas, nous avons décidé de nous rendre directement au site historique de Port Arthur. Au centre d'accueil, nous avons acheté notre billet (qui comprenait une croisière dans le port de 20 minutes et un court arrêt à l'île des Morts (ceux qui avaient acheté des billets spéciaux pouvaient descendre à bord, mais nous ne l'avons pas fait).

Port Arthur est plutôt sympa et il y a encore beaucoup de travaux pour restaurer et entretenir les bâtiments historiques. Certains bâtiments sont en ruines mais ils restent intéressants à voir – et amusants à prendre en photo. Les averses de pluie et les nuages ont rendu la photographie un peu difficile, mais au final, les photos se sont plutôt bien déroulées. Personnellement, j'aime les nuages dans le ciel pour mes photos car ils ajoutent beaucoup de profondeur et d'intensité aux photographies.

La Port Arthur Historic Site Management Authority (PAHSMA) a été créée en 1987 pour préserver et entretenir le site historique de Port Arthur – une destination touristique australienne majeure et l’un des sites patrimoniaux les plus importants du pays.

En 2011, la PAHSMA est devenue responsable du site historique des mines de charbon et du site historique de l'usine féminine Cascades. Les trois sites (connus collectivement sous le nom de sites historiques de Port Arthur) sont inscrits sur la liste du patrimoine mondial de l'UNESCO dans le cadre des onze sites composant le bien du patrimoine mondial des sites de prisonniers australiens.

Excursion en Bateau dans le Port

Comme il était déjà midi passé, nous avons déjeuné dans le grand hall du centre d’accueil. Nous avons tous les deux commandé un bon hamburger avec des frites (des chips plutôt, comme on dit ici)… très sain, mais au moins c'était de la bonne « mauvaise » nourriture. 

Après le déjeuner, c'était l'heure de notre petite croisière dans le port… heureusement, nous avions tous les deux nos chapeaux et nos vestes de pluie car le temps ne s'améliorait pas… enfin, parfois le soleil essayait de percer les nuages mais sans grand succès.

Nuages sombres sur Mason Cove, Port Arthur (vous pouvez voir la jetée pour notre croisière)

Sur la photo de gauche, vous pouvez voir le petit bateau de croisière pour la visite du port. Depuis le bateau, nous avions une vue magnifique sur les rivages, l'île des Morts et les maisons le long de Mason Cove.

À la Découverte de Port Arthur

Malgré les averses de pluie, nous avons eu plaisir à découvrir les ruines et les bâtiments de Port Arthur. Il n’y avait pas beaucoup de monde et c’était facile de prendre des photos sans personne… ce qui est toujours bien plus agréable !

Le Pénitencier (#1 sur la carte) est l'un des plus grands bâtiments du site. Il a été construit à l’origine comme moulin à farine et grenier en 1845 pour aider la colonie à devenir autosuffisante.

Dix ans plus tard, le bâtiment est transformé en pénitencier avec 136 cellules, un dortoir, une salle à manger, une bibliothèque et une chapelle catholique. Le bâtiment est tombé en ruine depuis 1877 à cause d'incendies et les gens ont emporté les briques pour construire des maisons et des hangars locaux.

Derrière le pénitencier se trouve l' hôpital (n°9 sur la carte ; voir photo ci-dessus et photo de droite).

À l'hôpital, les détenus ont été soignés pour de nombreux problèmes de santé contractés en travaillant à l'extérieur et en dormant dans des cellules froides.

Au début des années 1860, de nombreux condamnés étaient hébergés et soignés au Dépôt des Pauvres (n° 11 sur la carte) ou à l'Asile (n° 12 sur la carte), selon de nouvelles idées qui reconnaissaient l’importance des soins de santé mentale. L'asile comprend aujourd'hui un musée et un café.

Essai Photo du Pénitencier

La Prison Séparée

La Prison Séparée (#13 sur la carte) a été conçue pour offrir une nouvelle méthode de punition et de réforme par l'isolement et la contemplation. Les condamnés étaient enfermés dans des cellules individuelles pendant 23 heures chaque jour. Ici, ils mangeaient, dormaient et travaillaient, avec seulement une heure par jour pour faire de l'exercice, seuls, dans une cour aux hauts murs. Ce bâtiment a fait l'objet d'importantes restaurations entre 2007 et 2013.

Photos ci-dessus : Isabelle debout à la chaire à l'intérieur de la chapelle. Jim dans une cellule (je doute qu'ils souriaient). Certaines personnes étaient en prison pour avoir volé de la nourriture ou d'autres petites choses… en gros, les Britanniques essayaient de se débarrasser des pauvres pour pouvoir les mettre au travail gratuitement, ou dans en d’autres termes, comme esclaves.

Se Promener dans les Jardins

La pluie s'est finalement arrêtée – quelque peu – et nous avons pu nous promener dans les jardins et visiter d'autres bâtiments. Nous avons parcouru les jardins du chalet Trentham (#15 sur le plan) et, à l'intérieur du chalet, nous avons découvert l'histoire de la famille qui y vivait.

Nous avons marché vers la zone appelée Rang des Officiers Civils (#16/17/18 sur la carte) où se trouvent plusieurs cottages et jardins. La zone Row comprend la Maison du magistrat, la Maison de l'aumônier catholique, la Maison du médecin junior et la Maison du comptable. strong>, le Parsonage et le Government Cottage. Toutes les personnes « importantes » pour la gestion de la prison.

Enregistrement au Stewarts Bay Lodge

Nous aurions pu passer plus de temps sur le site mais nous avons dû nous enregistrer avant la fermeture de la réception, soit avant 16h00. Ils étaient vraiment gentils à la réception et nous ont donné un aperçu de la région. Nous avons pris les clés de notre cottage et nous sommes installés. Les chalets sont dispersés entre Stewarts Bay et le site de Port Arthur lui-même (à distance de marche du site). Notre chalet est vraiment sympa avec un grand balcon (trop froid pour être utilisé cependant), près de la baie, et il est très confortable avec une cuisine, un grand coin repas et salon et trois chambres (juste au cas où Jess et Alex auraient pu nous ont rejoint, mais ils devaient quand même travailler).

Dîner au Restaurant 1830

Nous avions réservé pour le dîner au restaurant du Stewarts Bay Lodge, mais malheureusement la réception nous avait annoncé plus tôt que le restaurant était fermé car le Chef avait le Covid. En notre nom, ils ont appelé le restaurant situé à l'intérieur du site de Port Arthur et nous avons pu faire une réservation.

Nous avons eu un très bon dîner de fruits de mer (j’avais un poisson de haute mer de Tasmanie mais je ne me souviens plus du nom) avec du vin blanc de la région. Bref, un dîner très agréable.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 75 miles (121 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 3.3 miles (5.3 km)

JOUR 8 – 17 décembre 2022 – Tour de la péninsule de Tasman

Jour 8 – 17 décembre 2022 – Visite de la Péninsule de Tasman

La Réserve de Tessellated Pavement

We woke up fairly early and had breakfast (breakie as they say here) at the On the Bay Restaurant around 8:00am. Since the breakfast and lunch crew is different from the dinner crew, there was no Covid risk, and as such it could be open for breakfast and lunch. We had a hearty breakie and were quickly on our way.

Notre premier arrêt de la journée a été la Réserve de Tessellated Pavement. La pluie s'est arrêtée. Hourra! Nous avons marché jusqu'au rivage et avons passé du temps à explorer (et, oui, à prendre des photos) le trottoir pavé. Un phénomène assez inhabituel que l'on ne retrouve que dans quelques endroits sur Terre où les roches se sont fracturées en blocs polygonaux et ressemblent à des tuiles artificielles.

Falaises de la Réserve de Tessellated Pavement

Vues de Clyde Island de Réserve de Tessellated Pavement

Jim marche sur la Tessalleted Pavement

Notre premier arrêt de la journée était à la Réserve de Tessellated Pavement. La pluie s'est arrêtée. Hourra! Nous avons marché jusqu'au rivage et avons passé du temps à explorer (et, oui, à prendre des photos) le trottoir pavé. Un phénomène assez inhabituel que l'on ne retrouve que dans quelques endroits sur Terre où les roches se sont fracturées en blocs polygonaux et ressemblent à des tuiles artificielles.

Une brève leçon de géologie. Les dépressions sont appelées formations panoramiques ; le contraire est appelé formation de pain car les pierres ressemblent à du pain qui lève. Apparemment, le lever du soleil est un incontournable pour les photographes… la prochaine fois !

Galerie Photos de la Réserve de Tessellated Pavement

Leech and Lunch (Sangsue et Déjeuner)

Avant de continuer vers d'autres sites et de faire d'autres petites balades, nous nous sommes arrêtés au célèbre food van Doo-Lishus juste devant Devils Kitchen. Alors que je sortais de la voiture, j'ai remarqué quelque chose qui me démangeait à la jambe… j'ai vu quelque chose de visqueux sur mon genou… j'ai crié et je l'ai brossé pour me rendre compte que c'était une sangsue. Dégoûtant! Il m'avait mordu à travers mes collants… J'ai dû l'avoir attrapé alors que nous marchions sur le sentier menant à la Réserve de Tessellated Pavement. Dégoûtant. J'ai envoyé une photo à Jess pour qu'elle puisse demander à Alex s'il s'agissait bien d'une sangsue et non d'autres « bêtes » venimeuses que l'on ne trouve qu'en Australie ! À mon grand soulagement, elle a confirmé qu'il ne s'agissait que d'une sangsue.

Récupérant de ma peur des sangsues, nous avons commandé notre déjeuner dans la camionnette. Fish and Chips et Calamari and Chips – tellement de nourriture frite ! Mais c’était très frais et très bon… mais je ne pense pas pouvoir manger plus de fritures avant longtemps.

Pirates Bay

Même si la météo n’était toujours pas des meilleures, nous avons décidé de poursuivre notre route panoramique. La côte de la Péninsule de Tasman est incroyable ! Des vues magnifiques où que vous regardiez.

Eaglehawk Neck-Pirates Bay est célèbre pour être le point qui a empêché les condamnés de s'échapper de Port Arthur en raison de l'étroit banc de sable qui relie la Péninsule de Tasman au reste de la Tasmanie. À l'époque de Port Arthur, cette zone était protégée par une meute de chiens pour empêcher les condamnés de franchir la ligne ; cela s'appelait la Dog Line.

Nous avons pu faire quelques courtes randonnées dans la région, mais la pluie a rendu difficile les longues randonnées. Cette partie de la Tasmanie est certainement une région à visiter à nouveau – et elle est si proche de Hobart.

Tellement de beaux points de vue et de randonnées autour de la région de Pirates Bay, Blow Hole et Devils Kitchen
Falaises de Devils Kitchen
Pirates Bay
Le petit port de Pirates Bay, principalement destiné aux bateaux de pêche et de loisirs
Point de vue depuis Devils Kitchen
Devils Kitchen, l'Arche de Tasman
Les falaises de Pirates Bay
Les falaises de Pirates Bay

Blow  Hole at Pirates Bay

Galerie photos du Blow Hole à Pirates Bay

La Réserve de Safety Cove

Notre journée n’était pas encore tout à fait terminée ! Nous sommes retournés vers Port Arthur, en nous arrêtant à la Tasman Chocolate Factory pour acheter des chocolats pour les parents d’Alex et pour nous aussi ! 

Jim prend des photos du ferry de Port Arthur

Nous avons ensuite dépassé Port Arthur et nous sommes arrêtés à la Réserve de Safety Cove, qui se trouve juste autour du site historique de Port Arthur. Grâce à la belle lumière à travers les nuages, nous avons pu prendre de très belles photos en marchant sur la plage.

Galerie de photos de la Réserve de Safety Cove

Galerie photos de la plage avec des mouettes en vol

Parc National de Tasman

Nous avons décidé de découvrir l’autre côté du Parc National de Tasman, qui est à quelques kilomètres de la Réserve de Safety Cove. Quand nous sommes arrivés, nous étions presque seuls. Nous ne nous sommes arrêtés que peu de temps car il y avait beaucoup de vent aux abords du parc.

Clôture d'une très bonne journée !

De retour à notre chalet, nous avons fait une petite promenade derrière notre chalet où se trouve une petite plage appelée Stewards Bay Beach. Le vent s’était calmé et il faisait presque « chaud ». Nous attendions demain avec impatience car les prévisions météo étaient toujours très ensoleillées et chaudes !

Stewarts Bay Beach
Stewarts Bay Lodge

Après cette journée bien remplie et amusante, nous avons décidé de rester dans notre cottage pour le dîner – qui ressemblait plutôt à un pique-nique à l’intérieur. Nous avons même eu le temps de regarder certaines chaînes de télévision… rien de très excitant à la télé.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 83 miles (134 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 3.7 miles (6 km)

JOUR 9 – 18 décembre 2022 – Parc National de Tasman – Cape Hauy

DAY 9 – December 18, 2022 – Tasman National Park – Cape Hauy

Hiking the Cape Hauy Trail in Tasman National Park

Entering Tasman National Park

At last, a bright and sunny day in Tasmania. Deep blue skies with only a few white clouds here and there. We had our breakie at a diner called Port Arthur Centre around 8:30am, which is right across from Stewarts Bay Lodge. Since we knew we were going to have a long day on the trail today we selected a hearty breakfast.

After organizing a few things, we drove to the Cape Hauy trailhead in Tasman National Park, which is located at Forescue Bay. On such a gorgeous day, the area was already packed with cars but we found a spot up to park a bit further up the dirt road. It was 11:00am by the time we hit the trail.

We registered our departure and itinerary in the hiking log (see below photo), and off we went.

Warming up on the Trail

The Cape Hauy trail was rated at Moderate but I would rate it Difficult. Cape Hauy is part of a three-day hiking trail (a 34 km or 21-mile circuit) that crosses two other capes: Cape Raoul and Cape Pillar.

Wide view of the trail across the bluffs

Flora and Fauna on the Trail

Echidna on the trail

Halfway Point on the Trail

Halfway point on the trail

There were many stone steps on the trail and most of them were uneven with some quite high… and with long uphill sections! I got more workout than I bargained for. And, yes, more complaining: it was rather hot under the bright Tasmanian sun!

On the trail, we met quite a few backpackers who were doing the three-day hike. There were also some organized tours where they take care of everything for you, including cooking meals and living it up with wines and other goodies. But most hikers seemed to be on a shoestring budget, carrying their food and water, and doing everything for themselves, that is the old-fashioned way (we used to do this back then too).

On the above photo, you can see the type of steps we had to maneuver… in reality many were even higher and rougher than what you can see here (no, I am not exaggerating! Check out the below photos!).

Nevertheless, every step (pun intended) was worth it as the scenery is spectacular every which way you look. We took a lot of breaks for water and for pictures, of course!

Photo Gallery of the Cape Hauy Trail

To the End!

Photo gallery of Cape Hauy itself

Cape Hauy from the End of the World!

Photo gallery of Cape Hauy cliffs

The End of a Beautiful Day

We were back to our car at about 5:00PM, after all the breaks we took, lunch, and the many photo opportunities along the way. Not sure I want to see steps for a long time! Walking back felt longer due to the heat… however aside from one tough long hill it was a bit easier and more downhill than walking to the end of the Cape – but same amount of steps, unfortunately…

Back at our lodge, we cleaned up and rested for a short time as we were quite hungry. We had dinner at the Port Arthur Motor Inn Restaurant which was quite pleasant. The food was much tastier than expected and the portions were rather generous.

Port Arthur Motor Inn & Restaurant

Our table had a good view of the Port Arthur Historic Site and we were able to take some nice photos thanks to the golden hour.

After dinner, we drove to the Remarkable Cave area within Tasman National Park to see the sunset. But on the way, I realized I had left my camera on the table at the restaurant. When we got to the Park, it was a bit too dark so we didn’t stay and decided to return tomorrow morning.

Of course, we stopped at the restaurant and they were kind enough to have stored my camera in a secure place. After this little incident, we went back to our lodge and collapsed for the night. A great day outdoors even if at times it was rather challenging.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 37 miles (60 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 8.4 miles (13.6 km)

DAY 10 – December 19, 2022 – From the Tasman Peninsula to Hobart

DAY 10 - December 19, 2022 - From the Tasman Peninsula to Hobart

Last Day on the Tasman Peninsula

Checking out of the Lodge and Last Stop at the Safety Cove State Reserve

On our last morning on the Tasman Peninsula, we didn’t rush out the door. Outside, it was a cloudy day but not too bad. We had breakfast at the Port Arthur Center, same place as yesterday. After our breakie, we checked out of our lodge and drove to the Remarkable Cave.

One last time, we stopped at the Safety Cove State Reserve to take pictures of a cruise ship anchored outside Port Arthur (see below photos).

Remarkable Cave

At the Remarkable Cave, we were alone and we climbed (nooo…. more steps!!) down to the cave and, of course, took some pictures. We didn’t stay too long as the weather suddenly turned really cold and rainy, with low clouds. The forecast was telling us that the rain would stop at about noon and it would clear up as well. We hope so.

Photo gallery of the Remarkable Cave

On the photo above, you can see Cape Raoul… one of the three Capes connected by the three-day hiking trail on the Tasman Peninsula.

Shipstern Bluff

Since the weather forecast was positive, we decided to do one more shorter hike before going back to Hobart. Our new destination was the Shipstern Bluff, which is on the Cape Raoul hiking trail. Shipstern, called Shippies by professional surfers, is known around the world as the “most dangerous wave in Australia.”

As we were leaving the parking lot for our short hike to the Shipstern Bluff – after admiring this humongous 4×4 RV – it started to rain more. But we had faith in the weather forecast!

Surprise… 😉… the weather forecast turned out to be dead wrong. As we were climbing up the bluff toward the Shipstern lookout it became worse and we were now walking inside the clouds.

Wouldn't mind having such a vehicle, quite cool!

Animal skulls on a farm post by the Shipstern Bluff trail

The Love Bench on the trail

The low clouds and the rain made some interesting (spooky) photos. Would be great to shoot a thriller in those woods! See the photo gallery of the woods in the clouds.

Our goal to see the Shipstern Bluff was to watch the surfers and the big waves, but of course there was no view from the top since we were in the clouds. At least, we got to stretch our legs – a bit sore though from yesterday’s long and “moderate” hike.

View from the Shipstern Bluff (prove that we did go to the top!)
Back to Hobart

Back to the car, we texted Jess that we would drive back earlier than planned since the weather was not cooperating with us today.

We arrived at Jess and Alex’s house around 3:30pm. For the rest of the afternoon, we chilled and spent quiet time talking with Jess and Alex. For dinner, Alex made homemade pizza and it was delicious!!

Wrapping up the day, we watched Top Gun (the original) as Jess had never seen. Always a very entertaining action/drama classic from 1986.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 90 miles (145 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 4.3 miles (7 km)

DAY 11 – December 20, 2022 – Richmond

DAY 11 - December 20, 2022 - Richmond

The Richmond Bridge

It was an easy and slow morning. Since Richmond is only 30-40 mins from Jess and Alex’s house we didn’t have to rush anywhere. Outside it was a nice day – not too hot, a few clouds, overall very pleasant.

Around 10:30am, we left the house to drive to Richmond passing by Alex’s childhood’s first house up in the hills. The drive wound through fertile farmlands with orchards, vineyards, and cattle.

Richmond is a quaint charming village with a long historic past. The town was considered one of the most influential areas in the foundation of Tasmania. Most of the village was constructed by convicts serving time at Richmond Goal (Gaol as it is spelled down under) between the 1820’s and 1840’s.

We parked on the main street and walked toward some of the highlighted sites, starting with the famous Richmond Bridge. 

Walking through Richmond

After taking some photos of the Richmond Bridge, Jess bought a board game at a game store that had lots of classic games as well as newer games – all board and card games in view of our trip to Corinna where there is no TV, no Internet, and no cell connection. This little store made me want to learn how to play all these games… it was fun to browse through all these games spanning across many years.

Caught you, Jess!

Since we had time for our 1:00pm lunch reservations at the Coal River Farm, approximately 10-15 minutes from Richmond, we relaxed in the backyard of a quaint café/cottage called the Czeg’s Café. Jess and Alex enjoyed their very fancy smoothie drink…

Jess and Jim inside the cafe/cottage (Czeg's Café)

Afterwards, we did some window shopping of the many shops and antique stores Richmond has to offer. Most of them are filled with local artisan wares, some very exquisite and expensive. I bought one Christmas ornament (our long-time tradition for our Christmas tree) made by a local artist following the beautiful aboriginal artistic style.

We strolled a bit more in the village and took our time to photograph the historic buildings, one being the Richmond Arms Hotel (see photo on the left and above).

I also took photos of the paintings on the Village Store, depicting the history of the village (see photo gallery below)

St John's Church

Next, we visited and photographed St John’s Church. Perched upon a small hill overlooking the Richmond Bridge, this small church lays claim to being the oldest catholic church still in use in Australia.

Candid camera of Jess and Alex walking down the church gardens… nice to be able to take photos in “motor-drive” mode.

Lunch at the Coal River Farm

After all this sightseeing, we were rather hungry. There wasn’t enough time for us to visit the Richmond goal. Got to save things to see and do for our next trip!

It was now time to head to the Coal River Farm for our late lunch. The farm/restaurant was very busy and we could see it was a very popular spot for people living in/around Hobart – and for tourists like us as well.

Unfortunately, the service was not very good as the waitress forgot to place Jim’s order. We asked to be comped (which they did, that is they didn’t charge us for his entree). Jim finally got his meal when we were all finished eating ours.

The food was good but the place is overrated and I wouldn’t recommend it as a stop for lunch due to poor service (or maybe we had bad luck that day).

Nevertheless, we did buy some chocolates and cheese (their triple brie) as treats. And all of this was very tasty.

Chilling at Jess and Alex's house

We drove back to Richmond as Jim wanted to take photos of the bridge without so many people around and I wanted to go back to the Copperstone Gallery to buy a couple of gifts: a tote bag for Jess, a postcard from Maman, and Tasmanian coasters for us.

The rest of the day was spent playing computer games, talking, catching up on blogs and photos… chilling. I could get used to doing just fun stuff 😊 ALL DAY LONG…!

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 47 miles (76 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 3.5 miles (5.6 km)

DAY 12 – December 21, 2022 – Downtown Hobart

DAY 12 – December 21, 2022 – Downtown Hobart

Small Hobart Neighborhood

Today was a perfect day to visit downtown Hobart and other points of interest. Alex had made a reservation for lunch at one of the really nice restaurants on the wharf called Mures.

We left the house mid-morning and stopped at Kmart so Jess and Alex could buy some summer clothes for our trip to Corinna. Then, we had one more chore to do which was to get the car keys fixed. As we were waiting for the keys, Jess, Jim, and I walked in the neighborhood where there was a small park.

Lorikeet on the lawn... hard to capture without a strong telephoto

On the above photo, Jim and Jess are relaxing in the park. Right behind them, there was a house (see photo on the right) that was really nice… with many rainbow lorikeets in the trees. I wouldn’t mind living in this nice house at all.

Macquarie Wharf, Downtown Hobart

Downtown Hobart, we parked near the Mures restaurant. Since it was too early for our lunch reservations, we walked around the port area called Macquarie Wharf. We could see that a lot of development had been undertaken to make this part of downtown Hobart very enjoyable, lively, and of course touristic. But it was not very crowded when we were there, which made the exploring very pleasant. There is definitely no lack of cafes, restaurants, and shops.

We observed prep activities to build the village (see the below photo) for the upcoming Sydney-Hobart yacht race, which leaves Sydney on Boxing Day and finishes in Hobart a couple of days later. I remember seeing the departure of the race when we used to live in Sydney. Quite impressive to see all the yachts gathered at Circular Quay in Sydney.

The above photo shows the typical seafood menu (this one was very artistically done) you can find as “fast food.” Lots of fish (often it is fried) and chips (or French Fries as the Americans say). We’ve always found the fish always tastes quite good, but after a while “fried anything” is a bit too much.

Photo Gallery of our Promenade around Macquarie Wharf

It was a perfect day for our little promenade in Hobart. Jess sure enjoyed taking in the sun and chilling (or rather taking in the warm sun rays) amid the bronze sea animal sculptures… and the relentless Paparazzi Parents were on the lookout again. Caught you, Jess!

Lunch at the Mures Restaurant

The Mures is a very nice restaurant, great service, great location, and great food. Our lunch was a pre-holiday lunch before our wilderness trip to the Northwestern region of Tasmania. We knew we wouldn’t be able to have fine dining in the middle of nowhere.

Inside the Mures Restaurant
The Mures Restaurant story
So many delicious options to choose from... tough decisions to make... and it's serious business 🙂

We all chose various seafood dishes served with a very good Sauvignon Blanc called Bay of Fires from the East coast of Tasmania. We took our sweet time to enjoy our beautiful lunch in great company.

Promenade around Battery Point

Battery Point has quite a few winding, narrow streets lined with houses built in the colonial architecture style. The historical ambiance makes the area very pleasant to visit. I could see myself living in this area!

Walking through the historic streets of Battery Point, we did some shopping. Of course, I bought a coffee cup – can’t break away from tradition – with a Tasmanian Devil illustration and some postcards to mail to family and friends. Jess found a book on Tasmanian birds for Jim as a Christmas gift. 

We also bought some groceries at an international fine foods store, some to eat tonight, and other food like Merguez sausages to freeze for New Year’s celebrations.

Whose baguette is it?! Hey, Alex… it’s mine, trust me, I won’t eat it… yet…

After our lunch, we drove toward Jess and Alex’s former neighborhood called Battery Point and parked the car on one of the side roads. We spent most of the afternoon walking around the Battery Point area. Jess and Alex were telling us that Battery Point is one of the most fashionable and desirable neighborhoods in Hobart while maintaining its historical past.

 Yes, there are interesting people in Hobart… not only in New York City!

After a very good and pleasant day (the weather remained absolutely perfect!), we went back to Jess and Alex’s house to get ready for our trip to Alex’s parents the next day.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 13 miles (21 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 5.4 miles (8.6 km)

DAY 13 – December 22, 2022 – From Hobart to Shearwater

DAY 13 – December 22, 2022 – From Hobart to Shearwater

Final Prep before Leaving for Shearwater

The morning was busy getting ready to leave for Shearwater. Before getting on the road, Jess and Alex’s Christmas gift (a hi-tech BBQ) was delivered. Then, off we were – on the road to Shearwater, at approximately 10:00am.

On the Road

Leaving Hobart was rather easy with little traffic but we did encounter some road constructions. According to Alex, the construction has been going on forever. The usual incompetence of government and the construction industry – a constant in this world.

Driving North, through the center of Tasmania, it is mainly all farmlands. There are also many poppy fields for the pharmaceutical industry (legal, at least that’s what they say).

Zeps Restaurant in Campbell Town
Main Street, Campbell Town

For lunch, we stopped in a small town called Campbell Town, which has a restaurant that Alex and Jess like to stop for lunch when they drive to Alex’s parents. The Restaurant, called Zeps, was quite nice and we had a decent lunch. I noticed beautiful artwork on the walls and took a few pictures including the contact info of the artist, Ornella Imber. I wouldn’t mind one or two of her art pieces in our apartment.

Isabelle in front of Zeps, Campbell Town
Eliza and the Ram, Campbell Town
At Alex's Parents' House

After lunch, we got back on the road and arrived at Alex’s parents in Shearwater around 4:00pm.

At Alex’s parents’ home, we were welcomed by Rupert and Narelle; Alex’s sister, Harriet, and her daughter, Madi (2.5 years old). The property they live on is quite impressive and has been in the family for several generations. The property is a 10-hectare farm and it is quite beautiful. The house is very Australian – one-story ranch style, tin roof, sunroof. Lots of character.

Such a warm welcome at Rupert and Narelle's home!

We celebrated our getting together with a toast and some snacks. But before getting too comfortable, we still had to do some prep work for our trip to Corinna. Narelle had already planned the meals (thank you, Narelle!), but we still needed more food items. I went with Jess and Alex to the nearby grocery store for food and to the liquor store for wines and beers.

Back at the house, one of Alex’s uncles and aunts and their daughter dropped by (they live very close) to visit with us. It made for some fun conversations!

Narelle explained that they sold their house in Hobart and decided to stay in Shearwater. Over the next few months, they plan to make upgrades inside the house with the kitchen and the bathrooms. Rupert also has plans to grow crops and plants on the farm once more. Lots of work ahead, for sure!

Rupert’s mother had passed away a few days ago and the funeral was taking place the next day in the morning. We were invited to attend. After the funeral and lunch, we would leave for Corinna.

Madi, Harriet, Rupert, and Jess

Although the weather was still nice, but a bit chilly, we built a bonfire outside where we had our dinner: corn on the cob, steaks, and chocolates. Alex is having fun cooking the steaks on the brick BBQ. Lots of fun all around, relaxing, playing with Madi, talking about everything under the sun! Everyone is very talkative in Alex’s family 😊…

Photo gallery of our BBQ dinner at Alex’s parent’s house

Because Harriet and Madi were not going to be with us in Corinna, we opened some gifts and kept others for Christmas Eve. Also, since we had brought some gifts from New York, it made sense to open them now instead of taking them all the way to Corinna… besides, we knew we were going to be loaded with stuff in our cars. 

Photo gallery of opening Christmas gifts (only the best selection as we took a lot of pictures that evening!) at Alex’s parent’s house

After a very enjoyable evening, we called it a night and we slept very well in the sunroom.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 169 miles (272 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 2.2 miles (3.5 km)

DAY 14 – December 23, 2022 – From Sheawarter to Corinna

DAY 14 – December 23, 2022 – From Shearwater to Corinna

Family Gathering

It took us some time to load the cars and get everyone rounded up. But we did quite well timewise and we left Alex’s parents’ house at 10:30am, direction Hagley for the funeral. 

Alex’s extended family is rather large and many people came to the funeral; lots of relatives living nearby but also some people who came from the mainland. The burial service was held first in a small cemetery and then we drove to a nearby church for the religious service. Afterwards, we all gathered at the RSL (a club for military personnel) to have lunch. Alex’s grandmother served in the Australian Air Force during World War II. She was born in 1923 and lived a very long and productive life.

On the Road to Corinna

At approximately 3:30pm we were on the road to Corinna. From Hagley, it is a 3–4-hour drive, depending on how many stops we would take on the way. We decided to take the scenic route to enjoy Tasmania’s wilderness.

Scenery photos taken from the car

Black Bluff Nature Recreation Area

We stopped at the Black Bluff Nature Recreation Area to stretch our legs and take some photos as the scenery was gorgeous. Beautiful clouds and light across the wide-open spaces all around us.

Below is a photo gallery of the wide-open scenery

Almost There!

The last 50 km of the drive was on a silica road so our speed was a bit slower – and there were lots of curves. We arrived in Corinna just past 7:00pm. The place was not full yet as people tend to take their away-from-home vacation after Christmas.

The scenery reminded me of the Southwest in the US – wide-open spaces, big skies, empty roads! I just love this feeling of freedom, away from it all!! And the temperature was perfect… nice to feel the sun on our faces…

Corinna, at Last!

Hard to believe that after so many months of planning we were in Corinna!

At the reception, the attendant explained the facilities, what water to drink/not drink, the activities around the area, etc. He reminded us that there is no cell service at all and no Internet access in this wilderness area. It is as if we were at the end of the world in the Western part of Tasmania, near the Piedman River. We later learned that most of this isolated and vast wilderness (mainly a rain forest called the Tarkine forest) remains unexplored for miles and miles.

Below are the photos of our cabins: The left cabin is where we stayed with Jess and Alex. The middle photo is the cabin for Rupert and Norelle. The last photo shows the water tank that collects the rain water for each cabin.

Dinner Time (and Play Time!)

For dinner, we had lamb chops on the barbie – thank you, Narelle and Rupert!

We played darts as Alex was toiling over the BBQ, cooking the lamb chops.

We had the common area of the village to ourselves and had fun playing darts and goofing off… see the below photo gallery.

We all went to bed near midnight. A day filled with excitement and beauty for everyone, and quite emotional for Alex and his family.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 186 miles (299 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 2.5 miles (4 km)

DAY 15 – December 24, 2022 – Corinna

DAY 15 – December 24, 2022 – Corinna

Down the Pieman River

First day in Corinna! A bit cloudy, chilly, but not too bad – yet… as it would get worse later on. Today is our outing on the Pieman River. A while back, we had booked a cruise for all of us on the Arcadia II (see below photo). Departure time was 10:00am toward Pieman Heads and return time to Corinna was 2:30pm.

The Arcadia II is a boat that was originally built of Huon Pine in 1939 and was listed on the Australian Register of Historic Vessels in 2009. In 2006, the boat was refurbished, refitted, and returned to its original pristine condition. Today, the Arcadia II is the only Huon Pine river cruiser still operating anywhere in the world.

The boat is run by an older couple, the captain and the skipper. The captain provided the commentary on the history and the unique features of the area. The skipper took care of everything else on the boat – from docking/undocking to serving snacks and drinks, all parts of the cruise. The snacks were very fresh and generous (fruit, cheese, crackers, tea, coffee). The cruise also included a brown bag lunch (a wrap, muffin, fruit drink), which was just enough food on the go.

On the way down to the Pieman Heads, it started to drizzle a bit more and some people found it too cold and went inside the covered part of the boat. Our group – not deterred by a little wind and rain – remained, for the most part, outside under the canopy of the boat. Being Christmas Eve, there were not many people on the boat, which was just fine for all of us.

Jim took a photo of a white eagle
So much interesting flora in the Tarkine Forest

Above are some photos I took from the stern of the boat as we were going down the Pieman River toward the ocean. This spider web at the bottom of the mast was quite interesting. You can even see the rain on the river (last photo of the above photo gallery).

Below is a photo gallery of the Pieman river and the Tarkine Forest

On the way down to the ocean, the captain pointed out several points of interest including some birds like a white eagle. We also passed a few kayakers (planning to do that the day after Christmas!). The vegetation is incredible in the Tarkine rain forest: thick, green, tall, wild. No wonder most of it is still unexplored.

Arrival to Pieman Heads

By the time we arrived to our final destination, the rain had stopped and there were even some sun rays… but, of course, they didn’t last very long. However, in spite of the clouds and some wind, it was not too cold and quite pleasant to walk on the sand. We docked about one mile from White Beach.

Arriving at Pieman Heads
You can see the ocean from Pieman Heads Pier
Pieman Heads Pier
Pieman Heads Pier

There are only a couple of ways to get to Pieman Piers: by boat or by 4×4 via a barge that crosses the Pieman River. The area is habited only during the warmer months of the year with fishermen or people who want solitude.

Pieman Heads and White Beach

We walked past the fishing shacks (temporary residences in the summer) called Pieman Heads to arrive at a wide-open beach of white sands for miles… so vast and no one!

Just Plain Fun… Talking, Walking, Taking Photos!

Photo gallery of playing with driftwood washed onto the shore by winds, tides, and waves

We took our time, walking around, taking photographs, eating lunch, and talking. Such a nice day, so far away from everything!

Below is another photo gallery of the vast beach and the ocean. Jim, with his telephoto, was able to capture the far-away rock formations… it would be nice to go all the way to the end in a 4×4 and camp, away from everyone and everything!

Time to Walk Back to the Boat

We could have stayed at this beautiful place much longer!

On our way back to the boat, we took some photos of an interesting tree… lost boots??!

Up the Pieman River

Photo gallery of the going back up the Pieman River

Wonder what they were looking at… another white eagle?

Caught you, Alex... no rest for the Paparazi parents!
What now... really?!

Yep… you guessed it… the Paparazi parents again (don’t worry, Jess, I didn’t use the “other” photo you didn’t like 😊!)

Back home to Corinna!
Back to Corinnna

In Corinna, the weather was warmer than before, and even a bit sunny! The weather can change so fast in Tasmania!

Back at our cabins, Narelle prepared hot tea and cookies, which was really nice. And then, everyone was on their own – napping, reading, chilling, or hiking in the area. So many activities to choose from in Corinna: hiking, kayaking, boating, four-wheeling, fishing, etc.

Hike on the Whyte River Track

I joined Jess and Alex on a 90-minute hike on the Whyte River Trail, a path through the Tarkine flora. 

We even saw an echidna (see below photo) and since the echidna was right in front of him, Alex was able to take a very good video. I also took a couple of photos but I was behind the echidna, so I didn’t get a very good shot.

On the path, we could hear noises but unfortunately we didn’t see other animals.

The Whyte River Track is a great representation of the Tarkine Forest with tall trees (e.g., giant Swamp Gum aka Eucalyptus regna) and Manferns (oversize ferns). Rupert and Alex can name all the vegetation… but I didn’t take notes ☹…

We finished our hike around 5:30pm, and it was time for a highly needed hot shower and a well-deserved break after a full day of fun activities.

Christmas Eve

As Narelle and Alex were fixing Christmas Eve dinner, I took some photos from the cabin’s window and was able to see a pademelon, a member of the macropod family like kangaroos and wallabies – except tiny. I could see that there were other pademelons hiding in the bushes but this one was more brave.

            Time to open the gifts! Surprise… a bug-killer gun!

We had a very nice meal for Christmas Eve served with a Taylors Shiraz wine, which was quite good. Others opted for beer.

Although we had opened some gifts at Rupert and Narelle’s house, we still had some left. Rupert got a bug-killer gun… it works quite well! Alex has one at home and he successfully demonstrated how to get rid of flies!

After dinner, we went for a short walk in the area and saw many pademelons, but it was a bit too dark for good photos. We could feel that the weather was getting somewhat warmer and tomorrow promised to be a very sunny day.

It was just before midnight when we all went to bed. Tomorrow, Christmas Day, is a free day to do anything or nothing!

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 0 miles (0 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 5.5 miles (8.9 km)

DAY 16 – December 25, 2022 – Corinna

DAY 16 – December 25, 2022 – Corinna

Christmas Day

Jim and I got up around 8:00am. We had some coffee and caught up on blogging, photos, etc. as we were falling behind. Although I take notes every day, I am sure I am forgetting some things… oh, well.

The Tarkine building: hotel, bar, restaurant
Rupert and Narelle's cabin
Our two cars in front of our cabins
Paddleboarders on the Pieman River

As promised, today was to be a very sunny day, bright blue skies… and, yes, rather hot! But there’s always a fresh breeze when not in the sun.

As promised, today is a relaxing day. Everyone on their own, chilling, walking around, napping, taking photographs, or doing nothing.

The patio of our cabin
An old gas pump from the mining days
The funny sign of the Fatman Barge

e-Withdrawal

Jess, Alex, Rupert, and I decided to drive the magical 15 minutes up the silica road, where we were told we could get a cell signal. After some back and forth in the middle of nowhere we finally managed to catch that elusive cell signal.

I was able to download a message and photos from Andy and Amy who had put together a nice little feast for Christmas Eve. Jess and I sent messages back and explained the lack of cell signal where we were staying. But this elusive signal didn’t allow me to send an email to Maman and Sylvie and Eric as it kept going in and out.

All in all, it was quite funny to see four grown-ups trying to get a signal in the middle of nowhere.

The Huon Pine Walk

After our brief e-stint, we drove back to the village and had lunch. Because it was too hot to walk around, I took a short nap and played off-line games on my cell phone. Fresh and rested, I went for a short walk on the Huon Pine Walk. Majestic trees and flora all around… and so silent. Even though it was hot, walking under this green canopy kept me very cool. 

Majestic trees and flora all around… and so silent. Even though it was hot, walking under this green canopy kept me very cool. 

Christmas Dinner

Narelle prepared a very nice Christmas dinner even though we had no oven: turkey, potatoes (from their garden), broccolini, and sweet potatoes. We had plenty of wine and beer to accompany the holiday meal. She had also brought a Pavlova, an Australian Christmas tradition: meringue cake covered with fruit like passion fruit and all kinds of berries and served with whipped cream. It was really good.

After such a nice dinner, we all took it easy and went to bed quite early as we were tired from all the activities from the past few days.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 22 miles (36 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 2.2 miles (3.6 km)

DAY 17 – December 26, 2022 – Corinna

DAY 17 – December 26, 2022 – Corinna

Kayaking Day

Another gorgeous day, lots of sun and blue skies. A couple of days before, we had booked kayaks for a half-day outing on the Pieman River, from 9:00am to 1:30pm. After some basic instructions, we were provided with our life vest, paddles, and kayaks. Jim and I decided to have a single so we could both take photos separately on our journey on the river.

As we were leaving on our kayaking adventure, Jess and Alex are having their photo taken by one of the staff for their marketing brochure or website.

The beginning of our kayaking adventure was very smooth. No wind and plenty of sunshine. See below a photo gallery of our kayaking exploits… 

Sunken Ship Site

As recommended by the staff, we took a small fork to the right of the river going upstream to see a sunken ship, the S.S. Croydon shipwreck (sunk in 1919). However, due to the heavy rains the river level was too high for us to see anything.

It is quite acrobatic trying to get out of a kayak that’s in the water… Alex managed it and took a look around the area.

Lovers Fall

After this small detour, we continued our way down the Pieman River toward Lovers Fall, where we crossed paths with the Acadia II on its way to Pieman Heads.

The Acadia II

To reach the falls, we had to get out of our kayaks… a challenge in itself when a kayak is in the water and it’s difficult to hold on to something stable. We all managed to do it, more or less elegantly.

Our arrival at Lovers Fall

Lovers Fall is a small oasis in the Tarkine Forest with a waterfall. Very refreshing to stand under the tall gum trees and manferns.. 

Then, it was time to head back to Corinna as our deadline to return the kayaks was 1:00pm.

Killer Wind… Killer Waves… and Rescue!

A few minutes after leaving Lovers Fall, the wind suddenly blasted across the river… quite a bit surprise for everyone! The river became very rough and the waves were going over the kayaks… humongous waves…! Jim and I realized that having a single kayak made it very difficult to paddle against the wind and the waves.

No more photos for the rest of the day… except the one with the big wave… then my kayak went under and I had to swim to shore, until… well, there’s got to be a story somewhere!

It was rather scary as we could see we were not making lots of progress paddling upstream. The double kayaks took off way ahead of us.

At last, the wind did die down somewhat, which made it easier to keep going on… but still quite exhausting. “Last time to kayak!” said Jim. As for me, I’ll go kayaking again… but I’ll have to watch out for killer winds and waves 😊 !!

As we were about 15 mins from the pier a small catamaran checked on us (we were past our half-day tour, and the rest of our group had told the staff that we were far behind). There were other tourists who were waiting for our single kayaks.

Rescued, at last! We got a lift on the catamaran back to the pier. Definitely, a touch of adventure on the return trip to Corinna.

 

Wrapping up a Fun (almost Scary) Day

After all these emotions, we spent the rest of the day relaxing, napping, as it was too hot to do anything else. We eventually ended up at the bar drinking beer and wine. As you can see here, Jess and Alex are well underway!

After a few drinks, we were more than ready to have dinner at the Tannin Restaurant where we had booked a table for 6:15pm. It was quite busy now as people were starting to arrive to Corinna for their summer holidays.

The restaurant uses local Tasmanian ingredients whenever possible, like seafood, fruit, vegetables and meat from local businesses. The meal was really flavorful and well prepared, even in the middle of nowhere.

The dinner was a great way to wrap up our last day in Corinna… beautiful memories we won’t forget! I would love to come back and see other sites in the Tarkine wilderness.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 0 miles (0 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 1.2 miles (1.9 km)

DAY 18 – December 27, 2022 – From Corinna to Stanley

DAY 18 - December 27, 2022 - From Corinna to Stanley

Goodbye, Corinna

much stuff!! Lots of empty bottles of beer, wines… must’ve been some wild parties these past few days. Rupert and Narelle had a full car hauling everything back to their house. They also had to take some of the garbage with them.

Before leaving, Jim took some photos of the water station that we used to fill our bottles. Each cabin has its own water tank but there is a central water station that is fed by both rain falls and the river.

After settling our accounts with the reception, we were ready to depart at about 10:00am. After goodbyes (we will exchange email addresses and Jessica will be the photo “router” for everyone!), we were off – Rupert and Narelle toward Shearwater; the rest of us toward Stanley.

Goodbye, little pademelon... he was resting right gelow one of our cottage windows as we were packing
The Western Explorer

On the below map, you can see the road we were going to travel today. I had to draw the itinerary in red myself as Google does not have all the information to provide details about mileage and directions… it shows how this area of Tasmania is still unexplored. I love it!

As we drove for several minutes out of Corinna, at last, we had cell reception – euphoria! Lots of ding-dings in the car. Some very “important” text messages: Netflix account issue due to the stolen credit card, CVS pharmacy prescriptions ready to be picked up (sure, I’ll be right over), and holiday messages from friends. Having satisfied our electronic cravings, we were able to enjoy amazing wilderness across Northwestern Tasmania.

From Corinna to the junction with C214, it is the famous “white” road, over 77 kms (48 miles), and approximately a two-hour drive through amazing wilderness. Once more, the scenery reminded us of parts of the Southwest in the US.

Break to take some photos of the wide-open spaces at the top of the world!
And, yes, it is also the place where we had Internet access for a very brief instant…

View of the Western Explorer and the wide-open spaces
Back on the road again

At the C214 Junction

After a couple of hours on the white gravel road, we arrived at the C214 Junction. Our direction is West, toward Arthur River and Marrawah. We had read in our guide book that along the way there are amazing sites to see with plenty of outdoor activities (we will need to come back to explore this wilderness area…).

After stretching our legs and taking some photos, we continued our road trip. Next stop is Couta Rocks.

Couta Rocks

On the way to Couta Rocks we saw this interesting sign about watching out for the endangered Tasmanian Devil. However, we didn’t see one this time.

Couta Rocks, a tiny fishing village, has a population of 7 and is located in the middle of the Western wilderness along a very rugged coastline. All around, we could see that there are so many areas to explore on foot or with a 4×4. I can only imagine how difficult it must be to live in this part of the world. Even in the middle of the summer, it was rather cool because of incredibly strong winds. We could hardly stand straight and it was even challenging to take photos. No wonder this part of the world is considered having some of the cleanest air!

Aerial view of Couta Rocks (stock footage)

The colors were so brilliant that the ocean was deep jade. The photos did a good job to capture the beauty of the area – but you have to be there to really experience it all!

Photo gallery of Couta Rocks

A close-up photo of a seagull, far away on an outcrop, taken by Jim
Arthur River, the Edge of the World

Our next stop was Arthur River where there is a national preserve called the Edge of the World. The views from the outlooks were stunning. The brilliant colors of the ocean and the rocks made for some beautiful photos.

The plaque (see below photo to the left) commemorates the Edge of The World National Preserve.

Front Inscription
The Edge of The World

North West Coast Tasmania

“I cast my pebble onto the shore of Eternity.
To be washed by the Ocean of Time.
It has shape, form, and substance.
It is me.
One day I will be no more.
But my pebble will remain here.
On the shore of eternity.
Mute witness from the aeons.
That today I came and stood
At the edge of the world.”

by Brian Inder

From the Edge of the World site, looking directly west, the line of sight continues far beyond the horizon. While this point isn’t the westernmost of Tasmania, it is a point where if our sight had no physical limit, we would eventually land on the eastern coast of Argentina, all the way around the globe. This expanse of sea is known as the furthest-reaching stretch of ocean on the globe.

Photo gallery of the Edge of the World (like at Couta Rocks, you can see the brilliant colors of red and deep jade)

After spending some time at this amazingly beautiful sight, we left Arthur River. On the road, we took some photos of the residents’ houses that had some interesting characteristics as can be seen on the photos here.

We crossed the Arthur River bridge, heading toward Marrawah, a small town and the only place to get gas between Corinna and Stanley. You cannot miss filling up your car at Marrawah or you’ll run out of gas for sure!

Gas and Lunch Stop at Marrawah

We made it to Marrawah just before 2:00pm. First, we got gas at the only gas station since Corinna (lots of warning signs to fill up before going anywhere!). For lunch we stopped at the Marrawah Inn/Black Bull Bistro, a very traditional Aussie eatery facility: bar, pub, restaurant, all in one.

Our lunch was copious and OK (didn’t like mine as it was way too creamy but nibbled on French Fries and chicken schnitzel).

On the Way to Stanley

After the beautiful coastal drive (part of the scenic Tarkine Drive), we drove through very rich farmlands with cattle, mainly cows. The area is known as one of the best in Australia for beef. It was interesting to see how the houses and farms were often surrounded by very thick and tall hedges to protect against the gale-force winds (called the Roaring Forties) from the ocean. We did get a small taste of what the winds could be – even though it was summertime.

On the photo, you can see the way the hedges are planted to protect the homes and crops (stock photo)

It was quite a sight to see the Nut (volcanic rock formation) as we were arriving in Stanley. There was a ring of dark clouds hanging around the Nut, which eventually dissipated. It made for some interesting photos.

In Stanley

After a very full day of beautiful sights, here we were. In Stanley. It was windy and chilly but the sun was shining.

We crossed the town toward our lodging called the Stanley Village, right at the foothills of the Nut and on the wharf. At the Village, we learned that we had to get our room keys from the Stanley Hotel (on the main road) which also operates the Stanley Village.

The Stanley Village where we stayed
Beautiful views of the ocean from our rooms. The rooms were very comfortable.

Since we hadn’t done laundry in a few days (and were running out of clean clothes), we took advantage of the washer/dryer facility on the premise. At the same time, we took showers, downloaded photos, relaxed.

We also made reservations for dinner at the Hursey Seafoods Restaurant and we were lucky to get the last reservation for the evening, which was for 7:30pm (the restaurant was closing at 8:00pm).

Laundry done, all cleaned up and re-energized, we had one hour before dinner, so we took a walk on the wharf up to the port and then in the small village of Stanley. Below are two interesting signs that we took when strolling in the wharf area of the town.

Currently, there is a fight to stop setting up wind turbines on the Stanley Peninsula (see below photo on the left). Nevertheless, there are already many wind turbines on the Northwestern tip of Tasmania due to these gale-force winds that are common. The other sign (below photo on the right) commemorates the last aboriginal family in Tasmania that was purchased by the Van Diemen’s Land Company. Van Diemen’s Land was the colonial name of the island of Tasmania used by the British during the European exploration of Australia in the 19th century.

Pre-Dinner Stroll

The light was beautiful – the beginning of the golden hour – and we were able to take some photos of all the quaint cottages on Alexander Terrace.

After our short walk, it was time for dinner at the Hursey Seafoods Restaurant. At last, as we were all hungry. Although it was toward the end of the evening (for the restaurant), it was still quite full. Being the last reservations of the day, the service was slow (but the food tasty), and we entertained ourselves with wine and beer in great company with Jess and Alex.  

After dinner, as we were leaving, suddenly both Alex and Jess started to feel nauseous. They went directly to their hotel room. The next day, we found out that they both fell ill with Covid. More on that in tomorrow’s blog.

Jim and I finished the day by walking one last time (to digest) in the area, and taking some photos at dusk. What an amazing day filled with so much diversity. The photo on the left is original; the photo on the right has been manipulated to be black and white.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 123 miles (198 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 3.6 miles (5.8 km)

DAY 19 – December 28, 2022 – Stanley

DAY 19 - December 28, 2022 - Stanley

Slow Morning

This morning, we woke up to strong winds and chilly weather. The door to our hotel room was shaking hard with the wind but we managed to hack it so it would stop shaking. It also rained throughout the morning, but the weather finally cleared up in the afternoon, and the wind did die down eventually.

Sunrise from our hotel room

Unfortunately, both Jess and Alex felt sick with a sore throat and stayed in their room to rest.

Jim and I had breakfast at Marleys @ Sticks and Stones Shells and Bones (talk about a long name for a business…), a nice little eatery in the center of the town. And, yes, they did sell all kinds of stones, shells, and bones. Their breakfast was really good. We ordered some food for both Jess and Alex to take back to their room.

Marleys @ Sticks and Stones Shells and Bones

After breakfast, we went to the pharmacy to get Covid-19 antigen test kits. Jess’s test was not conclusive but it is more than likely that she did get Covid. We went back to the pharmacy to get some over-the-counter medicine. Alex decided not to take the test yet. The two of them stayed in their room all day, trying to get better.

Mini Road Trip

Jim and I decided to follow our original itinerary, which was to visit the Allendale Gardens at Smithton and Cape Grim.

Unfortunately, as we were driving, we saw a sign indicating that the Gardens are closed permanently now due to the owners retiring – and the lack of funds. We drove through Smithton and quickly found out that it is a dying town with many empty stores. Due to Covid? Or other economic reasons? Probably a combination of both, but for sure there is nothing to do or see in Smithton.

Cape Grim… NO ENTRANCE ALLOWED!

We drove to Cape Grim only to find out that the end of the road was on private land and FORBIDDEN to the public unless you booked a conducted tour with the Woolnorth Wind Farm. It was not indicated in the guide books we had. Of course, we had no intention to pay for a tour.

So much for going to Cape Grim!!

There, we met a group of British and Australian cyclists, who, like us, were pissed off that we couldn’t continue further to Cape Grim. Tasmania needs to do something to open up the road to the public. How can a private company own all the coastal land in the upper Northwestern part of Tasmania???

A bit of history about the Van Diemen’s Land Company, which owns these lands. Van Diemen’s Land Company is the original name of the southeastern Australian island colony that became the commonwealth state of Tasmania. The island was named for Anthony van Diemen, governor general of the Dutch East Indies in the 1640’s. There is a lot of dark history associated to this era due to the near extermination of the Tasmanian Aboriginal people during the Black War (1804-1830).

Cape Grim Sign

On the way back, we took some photos of the green lands in the area well known for its cattle. On the last photo (right) of the photo gallery, you can see the “wind” hedges I mentioned in the previous blog. You can see them throughout the land to protect people, houses, and crops from the very strong gales common to the region.

Conclure la Journée

After our mini road trip, we drove back to Stanley and had a quiet rest of the day. In the meantime, Jess tested positive for Covid. Chilling in our room, we had a couple of snacks in the room to hold us until dinner.

For dinner, we ordered take-away food from Hursey Seafoods Restaurant, the restaurant we ate at yesterday. Downstairs, the restaurant offers take-away meals. We ate in our room watching a great Christmas movie (yes, it is a Christmas movie!): Die Hard… they don’t make action movies like they used to anymore and Die Hard is still an action movie classic!

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 201 miles (323 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 1.36 miles (2.2 km)

DAY 20 – December 29, 2022 – Stanley

DAY 20 - December 29, 2022 - Stanley

Another Slow Morning

Jess and Alex were still not quite at full strength due to Covid, however, thanks to the medication they were feeling better than yesterday. I stayed in the hotel room to catch up on blogs and photos while everyone else went to Marleys for breakfast. They brought me back an avocado toastie which was tasty.

Around 11:30am, we drove to the Highfield Historic Site, which was only a couple of kilometers from our hotel. The weather was very nice, almost perfect: warm but not too warm and not too windy (that’s a change for this area!).

Stanley Village - Jess and Alex's car parked in front of our rooms
Highfield Historic Site

The Highfield Historic Site, part of Tasmania Parks & Wildlife, overlooks Stanley and The Nut and represents a very good example of early colonial architecture from the Regency Period (1811-1820).

The site was built in 1826 by convict labor and originally occupied 350,000 acres of agricultural land, which has been reduced over time and today covers 9.5 acres. Today the site is also a venue for special events.

Main House

The main house can be accessed through a gorgeous garden with a diverse array of beautiful flowers. When we arrived at the site, we were almost the first visitors and the “guardian”’ was watering the garden. We really enjoyed visiting the site starting with the main house, which is very well restored with many artifacts from the actual time period. 

We started our visit with the kitchen (see the below photo gallery).

We continued our visit, discovering the many rooms of the house, which included a Gallery Room, Dining Room, Nursery, Master Bedroom, and Kids’ Bedroom.

We enjoyed taking pictures of the various artifacts like clothing, games, luggage, etc.

On the below photo to the left, you can read an interesting diary note about an Aboriginal boy from a British “elite” woman.

Adjacent Buildings

The other buildings on the property are also very well restored and some have been modernized to accommodate large events like weddings and other special occasions. The below photo gallery shows the various buildings we explored.

Inside the chapel

Farming equipment inside the stables

Walking on and around the Site

​As we were walking around, Jess tried to make friends with a chicken but it was not too receptive.

Outside the site, there are some ruins of older buildings, one being a convict barrack. Only some of the walls remain standing today (see below photo gallery).

The land around the site is owned by the Cape Grim cattle company (the same one that has the big FORBIDDEN sites from yesterday). You can see that Jim was fascinated by the cows… surprised that they didn’t attack them as he took lots of pictures 😊!! But a couple of them got really close to him… probably trying to scare him away. Oh, and there were some sheep too.

This is the road to Highfield. Right across the site, we took this photo of cactus plants growing on top of a roof.

From just about anywhere on and around the site, we had gorgeous views of the farmlands, Stanley, the Nut, and the coastline (see below photo gallery).

Back to the town, we bought some snacks for our 3:00pm “lunch” and ate on a picnic table right outside our lodging. Afterwards, we all relaxed in our rooms until dinner time.

Dinner Time

We had made dinner reservations for 7:00pm at the Stanley Hotel. The restaurant was quite busy, the service good, and the food good.

A panookie

I had a Cape Grim Scotch Filet with veggies, which was really nice. For dessert, Jim and Alex has sticky dates and Jess, and I chose a panookie (cookie dough with Nutella and vanilla ice-cream).

Climbing the Nut

Since it was still quite bright outside, Jim, Alex, and Jess decided to walk to the top of the Nut.  Jim took great photos from the top of the Nut. A beautiful sunset!

Sunset Photos

I didn’t feel like hiking after dinner, so instead I walked around the town to capture sunset photos of this very picturesque area.

I really like the two photos below with the young fisherman on the wharf and all the seagulls flying around him.

Godfreys Beach and the Little Penguins

After the hike to the Nut, we all met in the center of the town, and walked over to Godfreys Beach where the Little Penguins (also called Fairy Penguins) come out at night. People had brough some red-light devices to be able to see them more clearly, but we didn’t. Nevertheless, we managed to see quite a few of these funny Little Penguins as it was peak season for them to be “partying” outside by the shore.

This photo of Godfreys Beach was taken earlier during the day

Below is a stock photo of the Godfreys Beach Penguin viewing platform 

Good night, Little Penguins!

After a very active day it was time to head back to our rooms. Tomorrow, we head back to Hobart.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 16 miles (25 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 5.8 miles (9.4 km)

DAY 21 – December 30, 2022 – From Stanley to Hobart

DAY 21 - December 30, 2022 - From Stanley to Hobart

Leaving Stanley
The Touchwood Café

We woke up to a very windy and chilly morning. Tasmania weather can be so unpredictable! We’re getting used to it.

We checked out of our lodging and found a Café – the Touchwood Café – where we had a very copious and delicious breakfast, more of a brunch really. The Café also has a small gift shop and I bought a nice painting for our apartment: a Tasman Devil with a yellow umbrella (see the photo of the painting on the wall in our living room).

Rocky Cape National Park

Originally, we had planned to do a short hike in Rocky Cape National Park, a wilderness park with interesting rocky shores, caves, etc., but the weather did not cooperate with us at all.

It started to rain as we entered the park. The wind was also very strong. But we didn’t give up. We decided to enjoy what we could as much as possible.

In spite of the rain, we were still able to take some pictures of the park.

Short Hike to an Aboriginal Shelter Cave

We decided to brave the weather – in-between rain showers – and we went on a very short walk to an aboriginal cave/shelter. Jim, Jess, and Alex went inside the cave to explore… supposedly, we’re not allowed to enter but as Alex said, “he’s a native too of Tasmania, after all!” I stayed on the platform to capture a few pictures of their short adventure inside the cave.

This park seems very interesting with lots of hikes where you can explore caves, pools, etc. and there’s even a ramp for boats. Another spot to come back to next time!

House of Anvers Chocolate Factory

We stopped at the House of Anvers Chocolate Factory in Latrobe for drinks and desserts. Since we had a hefty breakfast at the Touchwood Café, we were not hungry for lunch and sitting in the car also didn’t really open up our appetite. However, we ordered two cakes to share: a chocolate mousse cake and a cake called blackwood. Very fresh and very “chocolaty.”

I also bought some chocolate gifts for my team at work and friends – and of course for ourselves as well.

Back in Hobart

As we were approaching Hobart, Jess ordered three pizzas which we picked up on our way home.

We arrived at Jess and Alex’s house around 6:30pm. As the pizzas were warming up in the oven, we unloaded the car and got settled in.

We spent a quiet evening watching a good movie called Tombstone (1993). Lots of great actors who were just starting their acting career.

A very nice way to end a great trip… unfortunately, I started to see the end of my vacation. Only a few days left before flying back to New York City!

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 215 miles (346 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 1.3 miles (2.1 km)

DAY 22 – December 31, 2022 – Hobart’s Salamanca Market

DAY 22 - December 31, 2022 - The Salamanca Market, Hobart

Slow and Lazy Morning

We woke up quietly and had a leisurely morning. Today’s plan is to visit the Salamanca Market in downtown Hobart and do some shopping for souvenirs and also for our New Year’s celebrations. Jess and Alex stayed home to relax as Jess was still recovering from Covid. Luckily it was a mild version and turned to a typical cold.

Salamanca Market

The weather was gorgeous with blue skies and only a few white clouds here and there. It even became very hot during the day. When the sun’s out in Tasmania, it is hot!

Downtown Hobart was  busier than we thought. We eventually found a parking spot in the Battery Point neighborhood where Alex and Jess used to live.

The Salamanca Market is a very popular place for the Hobartians (yes, it’s what people living in Hobart are called, I checked!). With all its colors and diverse people, the market was very photogenic and we had plenty of opportunities to take some pictures.

We made our way through the many stalls, which were very busy with people buying souvenirs, groceries, and all kinds of household items. There were quite a few artists selling high-quality woodwork and woodcraft, fashion and crafts, glassware, jewelry, etc.

We bought useful souvenirs like a wooden cutting board, a coffee cup, coasters, and kitchen towels to take back home. We also bought jams, fresh fruits and vegetables for our holiday meals over the next couple of days. Tomorrow, for our New Year’s dinner, I will fix an authentic couscous dish. Since merguez sausages are seasonal, we had bought them before going to Corinna and froze them.

After a couple of hours at the market, we went to a fine grocery store (similar to a Trader Joe’s in the US) to finish our grocery shopping.

On the road to the grocery store, we saw this old De Chevaux. I couldn’t resist taking a picture!

New Year's Celebrations

Back at Jess and Alex’s house, we spent the rest of the day relaxing. We had steak on their brand-new  BBQ and ate in the backyard. We could hear some upbeat music from one of the neighbors, ready to party. It was a very pleasant evening.

We didn’t go see the fireworks this time (see below a stock photo of Hobart’s fireworks). Instead, we wrapped up the day and the year 2022 – watching Galaxy Quest, a comedy and spoof on Star Trek. Quite funny… we made it past midnight!

Goodbye 2022, and Hello 2023!

No blog or photos for New Year’s Day… we spent the first day of 2023, chilling, playing games, watching Stargate (one of our favorite sci-fi movies). We enjoyed each other’s company, eating and drinking (we had Prosecco). The couscous was a success… and we ate it all!

Jess and I looked at some of the older games we used to play like Myst and the Neverhood… listened to some of the great music tracks of the Neverhood. What a great game! I need to find a way to play this game again.

The last Paparazzi photos of Jess… well, for now, anyway. Some gardening in-between games… Jess may have inherited my mother’s green thumb (beyond mowing the lawn).

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 30 miles (48 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 2.4 miles (3.9 km)

DAY 24 – January 2, 2023 – Hobart’s MONA

DAY 24 - January 2, 2023 - Hobart's MONA

A couple of days before, we had made reservations to visit the MONA (Museum of Old and New Art) for 10:00am and for the Cellar Wine Tasting (inside the MONA) at 12:30pm.

We woke up to a hot day and it remained quite hot until the end of the afternoon when the weather turned stormy, windy, and chilly… as Alex and Jess say, it’s Tasmania’s weather. Hot one minute, cold the next.

The MONA is an art museum located within the Moorilla winery and is the largest privately funded museum in the Southern Hemisphere. MONA houses ancient, modern and contemporary art from the David Walsh collection. David Walsh is a professional gambler, art collector, and businessman. He made his fortune by developing a gambling system used to bet on horse racing and other sports.

The MONA tunnels

The museum is a dimly lit, subterranean sandstone labyrinth, dealing with a broad array of themes, death, sex, the human being, pretentious art, and other controversial topics. Another trait of the MONA is there are no wall labels. Instead, there is a downloadable app (called the O) that we used to understand the various work being displayed.

Siloam is MONA’s new tunnel extension. “It is born, like the rest of MONA, of iteration: a combination of ‘where have we been’ and ‘where will we go next…”

Since we had one hour before our wine tasting, we took a first look inside the museum. At first glance, you can see why the MONA is very unique – and controversial – and very much unlike any other museum I’ve ever seen. I really like the vibes of the museum.

Wine Tasting & Lunch

Our wine tasting session was very pleasant. The wines were quite nice, a bit “immature,” but with a very pleasant aroma. We enjoyed the break to taste the wines and chill.

The wine tasting opened up our appetite! We chose Dubsy’s, the most popular restaurant in the center yard of the museum. Dubsy’s is a “fire-cooked flame-grilled lawn food: plenty of veggies, wholesome grains, and invasive species-meats.” The yard was crowded and – and hot! Luckily, we did find a couple of benches under the awnings. The food was delicious!

In the yard, there is a sculpture called Compelling Contradictions (below photo on the left) which was made by the same artist, Thomas Otterness, who also created the Playground sculpture (below photo on the right) that is located in Manhattan on W. 41st Street between 11th & 12th Avenues.

Saraceno Exhibits: Spider Webs and Oceans of Air

These two exhibits were really fascinating. Its creator, Tomás Saraceno, draws his inspiration from science, nature, architecture, local communities, design, engineering, environmentalism, anthropology, music, history, and technology. His art goes from the miniscule to the vast, with a kaleidoscopic array of materials such as spider webs, radiation balloons, fine particle pollution from the skies of Mumbai, air samples from across Australia, dust from our museum, radio frequencies generated by meteoroids. We all enjoyed his work. Very interesting and unique.

Below is a photo gallery of the Spider Webs Exhibit

Below is the photo gallery of the Oceans of Air Exhibit

House of Mirrors

Although it was very hot, we decided to step outside to visit the House of Mirrors. These are always fun… we did find our way out!

Supersymmetry Exhibit

“Supersymmetry is an artistic vision of the reality of nature through an immersive and sensory experience. It is a series of work conceived as installation versions of the performance work “superposition” and as a platform to update the process and outcome of a residency during 2014-15 at CERN in Geneva, the largest center in the world for particle physics. The exhibit includes 40 DLP projectors, 41 computers, and loud speakers. The exhibit includes 40 DLP projectors, 41 computers, and loud speakers.”

The concept and composition are created by Ryoji Ikeda in collaboration with:

  • Programming, computer graphics: Norimichi Hirakawa
  • Programming, computer graphics, computer system design, technical management: Tomonaga Tokuyama
  • Programming, computer graphics: Yoshito Onishi

When we texted Andy about what we were seeing, he was very envious. Of course, he had heard about this creation; it’s right up his alley. Jess sent him a few photos. I also put together a short video (see below) of the various iterations of the exhibit… quite captivating.

The Egyptian Tomb Exhibit

Due to the popularity of the Egyptian Tomb exhibit and the fact that they only allow two people at a time in the “tomb”, we had made viewing reservations for 3:30pm. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to locate information on this exhibit… all we have is pictures. What you cannot see very well on the pictures we took is that the tomb is surrounded with water. To get to the tomb, you have to walk on narrow wooden planks to get to the tomb itself… all part of the experience.

Various Artworks

Below are two photo galleries of various artwork displayed at the MONA that we all found very interesting. I wouldn’t mind some of the paintings in my big mansion 😊!

The Grotto (below photo on the left) is a sparkling cavern inside a stone tunnel. “There, blown-glass flowers and polished aluminum reflect small low-resolution videos of catastrophic weather and geological events. In an environment where time becomes immaterial, a 36-channel lighting composition traces patterns and movement to stimulate neural pathways.” Truly an immersive experience.

The below photo on the right is the 20:50 exhibit. “The 20:50 is an art installation by Richard Wilson that was created in 1987 and first exhibited in London, and after a world tour was permanently installed at MONA. 20:50 is built out of sump oil and steel. The oil fills the whole room with one narrow viewing path that goes straight into the center. The oil is about waist deep but you cannot tell the depth from looking at the surface. From above, it’s an optical illusion. It looks like another level to the building, but really, it’s the reflection of the ceiling above you.”

Outside the MONA

Before leaving the Mona, we took the time to capture some photos outside. It had suddenly become very windy and we could see storm clouds moving in. We didn’t get rained on but we felt some raindrops.

The sign on the road is a good example of Mona’s eccentricity. “Please help Moorilla stay disease-free by keeping your dirty human bodies out of our vineyard. You humans are really filthy.”

The above photos are taken at MONA’s front entrance. From there, you can see the Derwent River and parts of Hobart.

The bottom line: I definitely want to go back to MONA one day. Now that I better understand the concept of the museum and the various sections to explore, it will even more fun to discover its very unique artwork and exhibits.

Farewell Dinner

We ended a great day with a great dinner at St Albi Restaurant – a really nice treat from Jess and Alex – within walking distance of the house. We celebrated our vacation and holidays together and our future plans.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 8 miles (12 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 3.9 miles (6 km)

DAY 25 – Hobart’s Bonerong Wildlife Park

DAY 25 - January 3, 2023 - Hobart's Bonerong Wildlife Park

Last Day in Tasmania!

The last day for me to be in Tasmania! We took it easy in the morning and after an early lunch we went to Bonerong Wildlife Park (the name Bonorong originates from an Aboriginal word meaning “native companion”). Bonorong is a Sanctuary for wildlife run by a small social enterprise focused on addressing problems in Tasmania’s environment and communities. Their mission is to rescue animals in distress. Currently, the Sanctuary has over 1,000 Rescuers around Tasmania who volunteer their time to respond to callouts for injured and orphaned wildlife.

This small park allowed us to get almost face to face with animals that became extinct long ago in other parts of Australia — but still protected in Tasmania – and very difficult to see in the wilderness. At last, we were able to see some animals that we didn’t get to see during our month-long stay in Tasmania.

The Tasman Devil

The Tasmanian devil is the world’s largest surviving carnivorous marsupial. Tasmanian Devils are wholly protected under various threatened species protection acts. Devils are widespread across Tasmania from the coast to the mountains seeking out any areas where they can hide, shelter, and find food. These include coastal heaths, open dry sclerophyll (Eucalypt) forests and mixed sclerophyll-rainforest.

When Tasmanian Devils feel threatened, they do strange yawns that look quite fierce (he/she certainly didn’t like having his/her picture taken). In reality, Devils are shy, timid and not dangerous to people unless attacked or trapped. Their fierce yawns are actually more a display of fear and anxiety than aggression.

Photo gallery of the Tasmanian Devil

The Echidna

The Short-beaked Echidna is the only species of echidna in Australia. It is recognized by its sharp spines, short legs, and long snout. The Short-beaked Echidna lives in forests and woodlands, heath, grasslands, and arid environments. When echidnas encounter a larger animal or face danger, they hide in piles of leaves or grasses or crawl into underground burrows.

The Birds

Lots of interesting and unique birds in Australia. The Sanctuary had several of them: Sulphur-crested Cockatoos, Tawny Frogmouths, Rainbow Lorikeets, Cape Barren Geese, Kookaburras, etc. We were able to take a few pictures, but it’s always a bit difficult since they are in meshed enclosures.

Other Animals

Bush tucker, also called bush food, is any food native to Australia and historically eaten by Indigenous Australians

Back to Jess and Alex’s house, I got busy packing my suitcases, ready to fly back to the US tomorrow.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES DRIVEN = 25 miles (41 km)

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES WALKED = 1.5 miles (1.6 km)

DAY 26 & DAY 27 – From Hobart to Brisbane to LA to NYC

DAYS 26 & 27 - January 4-5, 2023 - Journey Back Home

PART I – Wednesday, January 4, 2023 – From Hobart to Brisbane

My original flight was supposed to go to Melbourne and then catch a flight to Los Angeles, however, it was changed TWICE! And now, it is from Hobart to Brisbane. The major issue was that now in Brisbane I was going to have a very long layover – more than 6 hours. Not something I was looking forward to.

The arrival at the Brisbane Airport was relaxed. I had to go outside to catch the bus which took me to the International Terminal. Outside, it was rather warm and humid. Overall, the airport was very quiet. I decided to go through the customs right away since there was not much to do. I had plenty of time to make myself comfortable in the Qantas lounge.

There, over 6+ hours, I ate some food (mainly Indian dishes) and snacks, had some drinks, and killed the time working on my photos and playing Steam games on my computer.

One hour prior to our departure, a strong summer storm with lightning and thunder, and heavy rains exploded over Brisbane which forced the airport to close for about one hour. Our flight was also postponed from 10:30pm to past 11:00pm. It was quite impressive to watch this storm from the Qantas lounge. I had time for another glass of wine 😊… was feeling quite relax.

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES FLOWN = 1,111 miles (1,788 km)

Goodbye, Tasmania!

PART II – Wednesday, January 4, 2023 – From Brisbane to Los Angeles

The flight from Brisbane to Los Angeles was uneventful. Qantas flight attendants are rather friendly, but the overall quality of the food is so-so. Overall, I prefer American Airlines. I was able to sleep but not for too long as I didn’t want to spoil my sleep in Los Angeles. I forced myself to wake up a few hours before landing in Los Angeles. I kept myself awake with coffee and snacks while gorging myself on movies, some were braindead (the usual movie fare nowadays), but I was able to find a couple of gems.

Goodbye, Australia!

We arrived in Los Angeles on time (5:55pm) despite the fact we left almost one hour late. The airport was very quiet. It took me less than 20 minutes from the moment I stepped off the plane, to going through the customs (thanks to Global Entry), and finally picking up my luggage. I didn’t have to go through any luggage check at the customs and just exited the terminal… a record, I’m sure!!

It was another very rainy day in Los Angeles. It seems that Jim and I have been rain magnets since we left NYC. It was raining when we arrived in December and today was a rerun… The rain was rather strong and it was starting to flood the roads as I was walking outside the International Terminal. My Uber made it through the rain and the usual mad traffic at LAX.

The hotel (Hotel June) wasn’t very far from the airport but it wasn’t easy to find. We made it after a couple of wrong turns. Hotel June is a boutique hotel with only the basic amenities. There is no room service there but there was a restaurant on-site. The desk attendant was very helpful and he offered to take care of my dinner order. He even delivered it to my room. I ate my California-Mexican fusion dinner on the bed while watching a couple of Netflix shows. Afterwards, I did fall asleep rather fast!

TOTAL NUMBER OF MILES FLOWN = 7,939 miles (12,777 km)

PART III – Thursday, January 5, 2023 – From Los Angeles to New York

Last leg of the journey! I woke up early and my Uber picked me up at 7:00am. My flight was at 10:00am with a planned arrival at JFK at approx. 6:30pm. Being early at the American Airlines Terminal was nice as it was not busy at all. I went through the TSA checkpoint in no time and went directly to the American Airlines lounge. There, I had a very nice breakfast buffet. I found a place to sit by the window where I could watch the planes arriving and leaving.

Thanks to my mileage points, I was in First Class, which provides a solo pod. A nice way to travel. It was a very relaxing flight. The meal on the plane was quite good. I read, watched a couple of movies, and listened to music. Time flew by (pun intended) and in no time we landed at JFK in NYC.

I saw my plane arriving and then getting ready for the LA-NY flight. I even saw my suitcase being loaded into the cargo of the plane!!

Here again, it didn’t take me very long to get my luggage. My driver was ready for me and I made it home before 9:00pm… traffic in NYC is not any different than traffic in LA.

Back at the apartment, I was wide awake so I unpacked… a bit sad that this beautiful vacation is behind me now… but I now have wonderful memories of our time spent with Jess and Alex and his parents. Tasmania is a beautiful place!

NOMBRE TOTAL DE MILES PARCOURUS = 2 475 miles (3 983 km)